Choosing a railing is about more than just appearance. The railing should be functional in everyday life, feel safe to use, and fit the space where it will be installed. On a high deck, fall protection is the top priority. On a patio close to the ground, it’s more about framing the space or providing shelter. On a staircase or in a loft, the user’s grip and safety are the most important factors.
This railing guide is our comprehensive overview of all railing types, materials, and settings—designed to be the first step in your decision-making process. Once you’ve decided on the type of railing you want, we’ll direct you to our in-depth guides for glass railings, patio railings, stair railings, and balcony railings. That way, you’ll get the big picture here and the details you need there.
We’ll go over the five most common types of railings, the environments they’re best suited for, what the Swedish National Board of Housing, Building, and Planning’s (Boverket) building regulations (BBR) say about height and safety, how railings are installed and maintained, and how to take your project from the initial idea to a fully installed railing.
Glass railings are often the obvious choice when you want to preserve the view. The glass is smooth and solid, which also makes it an effective windbreak—and, in opal or frosted finishes, it provides privacy from neighbors and passersby.
According to the Swedish National Board of Housing, Building, and Planning’s building codes, the glass in a railing must be safety-rated (laminated) to meet the requirements for greater drop heights, so that no one risks falling through if the glass breaks. The most common types are 8.76 mm laminated glass (standard for residential environments), 8.76 mm tempered laminated glass (for exposed locations), and 12.76 mm tempered and laminated glass (for French balconies, high balconies, pools, or commercial environments).
You can choose between clear, ultra-clear, opal (frosted), gray, or tinted glass, depending on your view and privacy needs. If you’d like to learn more about the different glass options and their technical differences, we have a more detailed guide to glass for glass railings that takes an in-depth look at each type of glass.
Aluminum is one of the easiest materials to maintain on the market for railings. It is naturally corrosion-resistant, which means it can withstand moisture and the Nordic climate without rusting. It is a durable option that can be powder-coated in any RAL color—popular choices include white (RAL 9010), gray (RAL 9006), black (RAL 9005), and anthracite (RAL 7016)—to match the color of your home’s exterior or window frames.
Aluminum railings are lighter than stainless steel and easier to handle during installation. They are suitable for both outdoor (patio, balcony, terrace) and indoor (stairs, loft) use and are often combined with glass, wire, or vertical slats as infill material. Maintenance basically consists of wiping them down with lukewarm water 1–2 times a year—no rust treatment, no repainting.
Powder-coated aluminum lasts for many years, but the coating can be damaged by hard impacts—which can allow moisture to penetrate and cause the coating to peel. Never use solvents such as paint thinner or acetone when cleaning; they damage the coated surface.
Anodized aluminum has a self-protective oxide layer instead of paint and can therefore withstand more mechanical wear.
Stainless steel is often used when you want a sturdy construction with a technical and modern look. It works well both indoors and outdoors, and becomes a natural part of a functionalist building, a newly built single-family home, or an industrial building. Despite its name, stainless steel is not completely resistant to corrosion—and for outdoor use, it is crucial to choose acid-resistant steel (AISI 316) to prevent surface rust. This is especially important in coastal areas or environments where the air has a high salt content or high levels of pollution.
Stainless steel railings are often combined with glass, wire, or flat bar material as infills. The posts can be topped with a cap made of the same material or a wooden crossbar for a softer feel against the hand. Maintenance consists of 1–3 wipe-downs per year with lukewarm water and a mild detergent—more frequently in coastal locations.
In our designs, we use AISI 316 acid-resistant stainless steel as the standard for all outdoor products, and AISI 304 for indoor applications where the air environment is more controlled.
| Property | Glass railing | Aluminum railing | Stainless steel railing |
|---|---|---|---|
| Maintenance | Low – cleaning only | Very low | Low – wiping 1–3 times a year |
| Color Options | Clear, opal, gray, colored | All RAL colors | Natural steel tone |
| Suitable for outdoor use | Yes—everything about the climate | Yes – including coastal areas | Yes, AISI 316 in coastal areas |
| Suitable for indoor use | Yes – staircase, loft | Yes – modern style | Yes – industrial style |
| Windshields | Yes—effective | Depends on the infill | Depends on the infill |
| Privacy screens | Yes – with opal or gray glass | Depends on the infill | Depends on the infill |
| Aesthetics | Modern, airy | Modern, customizable | Technical, timeless |
Select the railing type, height, material, and mounting system in the configurator—you'll see the price and delivery time immediately based on your measurements.
The railing is subjected to significant forces, both from wind pressure and from people leaning against it. It is therefore crucial that the mounting is properly sized for the substrate—a stylish railing that is installed incorrectly will not hold up over time, no matter how beautiful the glass or posts are.
There are three main principles for installation. When installing on wood (decking, wooden joists), screws must always be fastened into load-bearing studs, not just into the decking—the decking does not provide sufficient grip to support the railing’s load. In concrete or other hard surfaces, chemical anchors or expansion anchors are used, sized according to the railing’s weight and the horizontal forces to which the structure is subjected.
The second option is the fastening system for the infill material itself (the glass, slats, or wires). Clamp fasteners are the most common choice for glass railings—small stainless steel or aluminum clamps that secure the glass at specific points to the post or joist. Profile glass (U-profile at ground level) creates a fully glazed solution with no visible posts. The slotted post system is the classic design, where the posts support a top rail and hold the infill in place between them.
The third choice is the mounting type: top mounting (the posts extend straight up from the subfloor) or side mounting (the posts are attached to the side of the joists). Top mounting is easiest on a deck or rooftop terrace; side mounting is used where the floor surface needs to be completely level or where height needs to be maximized without sacrificing floor space. Both are approved; the choice is often based on aesthetics and practicality.
In addition to glass, aluminum, and stainless steel, there are three materials that remain firmly established in specific settings: wood, wrought iron, and wire. Each has its own aesthetic and its place in the Swedish railing landscape.
Wood is the classic choice—pressure-treated pine, larch heartwood, or oak are used both for the railing posts and as crossbars/handrails. Wood ages beautifully if treated properly, requires more maintenance than metal (it should be oiled or stained every 2–4 years when used outdoors), and is particularly well-suited for turn-of-the-century homes, farmhouses, and country-style homes. Wood is also often used to provide a soft grip in the form of a handrail atop an aluminum or stainless steel railing.
Wrought iron is the second traditional material, often seen on turn-of-the-century buildings, manor house balconies, and in classic stairwells. Wrought iron requires surface treatment (galvanization or powder coating) to prevent rust, and should be inspected every few years to catch rust before it spreads. Its aesthetic is decorative and artisanal—it doesn’t suit modern minimalist styles, but it’s perfect for traditional architecture.
Wire Railing It is the slimmest and most discreet option. The cables are stretched horizontally between posts, creating an almost invisible barrier—perfect for terraces with a view or in modern indoor settings such as lofts and industrial apartments. Keep in mind, however, that wire constructions may be classified as climbable according to BBR—they are not suitable as fall protection in environments where children under 12 are present, since children can climb the horizontal wires. If you want the aesthetic of wire fencing in a child-safe environment, the wires must be stretched vertically or combined with a solid lower section.
Indoor railings serve a slightly different purpose than outdoor ones. Since they are not exposed to harsh weather conditions, the choice of material is determined almost entirely by aesthetics and ergonomic grip. Glass railings are popular in modern single-family homes and townhouses because they open up the space and allow light to pass between floors. Aluminum and stainless steel work just as well indoors, often with a wooden handrail for a softer grip.
On a staircase, the handrail serves primarily as a support—your hand rests on it as you go up or down. This means that the shape, diameter, and material of the handrail affect the feel more than anything else. A round wooden rail measuring 38–45 mm is a classic size that fits most hands, while a flat top made of stainless steel or aluminum gives a more modern look but may feel harder to the touch.
For lofts, mezzanines, and indoor balconies, the railing is considered a fall protection measure. According to the Swedish National Board of Housing, Building and Planning (Boverket), the same minimum dimensions apply here as for outdoor areas: at least 900 mm for a fall height ≤3 m, and at least 1,100 mm for a fall height >3 m. No openings may exceed 100 mm in areas where children under 12 years of age are present. Stair and landing railings must be at least 900 mm high.
For more information on handrails specifically for stairs—including slope adjustments, glass panels for stairs, and handrail dimensions— you can read our stair guide here.
Outdoor railings are the largest category—and the one where the choice of material matters most. Sun, rain, wind, snow, and frost impose demands that indoor environments never do. That is why stainless steel, aluminum, and glass dominate the outdoor market today, with wood and wrought iron as strong traditional alternatives.
On the balcony, the railing serves as a fall protection, windbreak, and design element all in one. Glass railings are often the preferred choice because they preserve the view, act as a windbreak, and require minimal maintenance. Wooden fences or vertical slats made of pressure-treated wood are the classic and more affordable option. For more detailed information about railings and fences specifically for patios, read our patio guide, which covers placement, size, regulations, and inspiration.
On balconies in apartment buildings, additional considerations apply: the homeowners’ association’s bylaws, the uniformity of the building’s facade, and the board’s approval. A railing is often considered a facade alteration and requires approval from the board before ordering. An opal-finish glass railing is one of the most popular solutions for balconies because it provides both privacy from neighbors and wind protection in a single design. A dedicated balcony guide will be available soon, featuring in-depth information on balcony railings and French balconies.
According to the Swedish National Board of Housing, Building, and Planning, a railing along a ground-level patio is not normally required (a railing is not required for drop heights under 0.5 m). In this case, the structure is often a fence—more a design choice than a safety requirement—and you have a great deal of freedom in its design.
If you want to combine multiple functions in a single outdoor railing—fall protection, wind protection, and privacy—a glass railing in an opal or gray finish is often the simplest solution. You get all three in one design without needing separate windbreaks or panels.
For coastal installations: always request acid-resistant stainless steel (AISI 316) or powder-coated aluminum. Standard stainless steel (AISI 304) is not sufficient in salty air.
In public and commercial settings—hotels, restaurants, offices, apartment buildings, shopping malls, hospitals, and schools—the requirements for handrails are more stringent than in private homes. The load-bearing requirements are higher, the choice of materials is more limited, and the wear and tear is more severe.
For commercial environments, we always recommend 12.76 mm tempered and laminated glass that provides fall protection, as it can withstand significantly higher point loads. The posts should be made of acid-resistant stainless steel (AISI 316) or heavily reinforced powder-coated aluminum. Wood and wrought iron solutions are more common in older, historically protected buildings where the original style must be preserved during renovation.
In public spaces, stricter safety requirements from the Swedish National Board of Housing, Building, and Planning (Boverket) also apply: the railing height is often 1,100 mm even at lower fall heights, and the structure must be able to withstand the load that occurs when many people lean against the railing at the same time—for example, at an outdoor dining area or on a hotel balcony. In these cases, documentation and a declaration of performance are essential for meeting the industry’s strength requirements.
For large-scale construction projects and corporate orders, we offer 3D/BIM design, project cost estimates, and coordination with the general contractor. Please contact our corporate department for inquiries.
Railings in coastal areas or exposed high-altitude locations are subjected to significantly harsher conditions than railings on an inland home. Salt, moisture, wind, and extreme temperature fluctuations place heavy demands on the material—and the wrong choice can cause the railing to start rusting within a few years.
The first critical choice is the grade of stainless steel: AISI 304 (standard stainless steel) is not sufficient in a coastal environment. It must be AISI 316 (acid-resistant stainless steel), which can withstand chloride-rich air without developing surface rust. Powder-coated aluminum also works excellently in coastal environments—aluminum does not oxidize, and the coating protects the surface.
The second choice is the thickness of the glass. On an exposed balcony or rooftop terrace where the wind blows hard, we recommend 12.76 mm of tempered and laminated glass, along with sturdy fastenings to the joists. 8.76 mm works in more sheltered locations but is not as safe under extreme wind loads.
A glass railing that covers large areas without openings is subject to significant wind loads—especially on higher-level balconies and in coastal locations. Undersized structures risk coming loose or toppling over in strong winds.
Railings are safety devices and are therefore regulated by the Swedish National Board of Housing, Building, and Planning’s building regulations (BBR). Here are the most important rules you need to know, regardless of the type of railing you choose:
Keep in mind that the National Board of Housing, Building, and Planning’s building codes are updated periodically—always check the latest version on the Board’s website if you are unsure.
The delivery time for a railing depends on the railing type, dimensions, material, glass selection, color, mounting method, and any optional features. Since all of our railings are manufactured or customized for each project, the time from order to delivery may vary. The table below provides a general overview of the factors that typically affect manufacturing and delivery for different types of railings.
When you configure your railing, you'll get a more accurate estimate of the price and delivery time, based on your measurements and selections.
| Railing Type | What factors affect manufacturing? | What factors affect when an order can be delivered? |
|---|---|---|
| Glass railing with posts | Dimensions, glass type, number of glass panels, posts, clamps, and any crossbeams | Project scope, selected materials, and current production schedule |
| Post-free glass railing | Glass thickness, mounting method, length, corners, and any special dimensions | Selection of glass, hardware, or tracks, as well as when all parts of the order are ready |
| Aluminum railing | Height, length, color options, mounting, handrails, and choice of filling, such as glass or wire | Custom sizing, color selection, number of parts, and current order volume |
| Stainless steel railing | Material quality, posts, handrails, glass or other infill, and the project's design | Product selection, customizations, availability, and when the entire order is ready for consolidated delivery |
| Wire Railing | Length, number of posts, wire installation, corners, mounting, and any crossbeams | Project dimensions, number of components, and any optional extras |
| Wrought-iron-inspired aluminum railing | Dimensions, model, color, gates, and any special modifications | Selected design, surface treatment, scope of the project, and current production |
| Fittings, Clamps, and Accessories | Selection of fasteners, materials, color, and compatibility with the railing type | If the accessories are part of a larger order, they will be shipped together with the other items once everything is ready |
How often you need to maintain the railing depends entirely on the material you choose. A glass railing requires virtually no maintenance beyond window cleaning, while an outdoor wooden railing needs to be oiled or treated with wood stain regularly.
General Inspection: Regardless of the material, check all screws and fasteners at least once a year, preferably before the season begins. This is the single most important maintenance step to ensure that the railing retains its safety function.
Inspect the railing after winter: make sure all screws are tight, the posts are secure, and the fasteners in the joists haven’t given way. For glass railings: retighten the clamps before you start serving outdoors—that way, you won’t have to deal with loose fittings in the middle of summer.
With proper care, a well-chosen railing will last 20–40 years, depending on the material.
Once you've gone through the guide above, you'll have everything you need to make an informed decision. Here's the process, from idea to fully installed railing:
For specific environments, you can find our other guides here.
Please contact our customer service before placing your order—we’ll help you choose the right type of railing, height, and material based on the location, regulations, and your preferences. You can reach us by phone, chat, or email.
Yes, many railings are suitable for do-it-yourself installation—especially glass railings with clamps and pre-assembled post systems. You purchase custom-sized parts from us and install them according to the instructions. For complex installations (high balconies, rooftop terraces, French balconies, commercial settings), we recommend our installation service or a qualified installer.
The details of a railing are often what determine its overall impression—and the top rail is the railing’s most important detail. It’s always visible; it’s where your hand rests; and its material and shape determine whether the railing feels elegant or merely functional.
A wooden crossbar —made of oak, pine, or another hardwood—gives the railing a warmer look and a soft, pleasant feel to the touch. Outdoor wood needs to be treated regularly with wood oil and lightly sanded with fine-grit sandpaper in the direction of the grain if the surface has become gray or fibrous. There’s one additional thing to keep in mind for oak crossbars: oak contains tannic acid that can leach out when first exposed to water and discolor underlying surfaces—oil the wood or apply oxalic acid during installation to mitigate this.
A stainless steel or aluminum handrail offers a sleek, modern look and requires minimal maintenance. It works both indoors and outdoors and can be combined with glass, cable, or vertical slats as infills. Flat tops feel colder to the touch than rounded ones—if you want a better grip without sacrificing the modern look, choose an oval or half-round profile instead of a completely flat one.
For handrails along a staircase, the handrail itself is particularly important. A round wooden handrail with a diameter of 38–45 mm is a classic size that fits most hands. Legally, handrails on public staircases must be between 32 and 65 mm in diameter and positioned so that they can be grasped all the way around. Private staircases are not subject to the same regulations, but the same dimensions are ergonomically comfortable.
Adding a wooden top rail or handrail on top of an aluminum or stainless steel railing is one of the most common upgrades our customers make—it gives the railing a unique look and a sense of craftsmanship without sacrificing the low-maintenance nature of metal.
In our configurator, you can choose from a variety of top rails and handrails made of stainless steel, aluminum, and wood—all custom-sized to fit the length and corners of your railing. If you’d like advice on which size is best for your space, please contact our customer service team.
